BACK

BEST PLACES TO DRINK WINE: nsw/act

P&V Paddington

268 Oxford St, Sydney,
pnvmerchants.com

GO FOR: A Thursday chat with co-proprietor Mike Bennie 

It takes a fair amount of control to walk past P&V Paddington’s baby blue façade without being drawn into the wild and wonderful confines of the bottle shop. Eyes right and you’ll find dynamic Champagnes including Métisse, Marie Courtin and other lesser-known fizz. Then forward into the gallery of colourful labels belonging to highly smashable lo-fi, organic and biodynamic wines from home and abroad as well as local brews, artisan spirits and non-alcoholic drops. Take a bottle off the shelf and head down to the courtyard where, for a small corkage fee, it will be opened for you. Or save your bottle for home and pick something from the by-the-glass options that the delightful P&V crew will be only to happy to take you through. There are tasty snacks or for something more substantial head upstairs to Porcine, open 3 nights a week, and independently run by Nicholas Hill and Henry Levy. There are also masterclasses and tastings. JUDY SARRIS

exp

2188 Broke Rd, Pokolbin, exprestaurant.com.au

GO FOR: A wine list that spans across generations of the Hunter Valley story 

Pull up a stool at EXP’s bar and settle in. Situated in the heart of the Hunter Valley, locality leads Frank Fawkner’s wine and food offerings. Iconic names Tyrrell’s, Margan, Thomas, Brokenwood and Scarborough star, alongside next-gen winemakers like Angus Vinden and Usher Tinkler. There’s also a great round-up of wine from other regions, with Mount Mary, Moorilla, Frankland Estate, Blind Corner, Leko, SC Pannell, Chalmers and more. Now I know we’re here to talk about the drinks, but you can’t ignore the incredible food from Fawkner and his team. With their ethos and name coming from their desire to craft their “EXPressions” of Australian cuisine, every course will surprise and delight. There are flavour combinations I will be remembering for a long time.  Amy Northcott

Balcony Bar
& Oyster Co

7/3 Lawson St, Byron Bay,
balcony.com.au

GO FOR: The unmatched people-watching and well-priced list

Barefoot and fancy-free is the kind of mood at this prime people-watching spot. Once you’ve pulled yourself away from the beach and found yourself in a cosy lounge with a glass in hand, you’ll likely have no firm plans to leave. There are plenty of delicious plates to share — including a namesake selection of oysters — and cocktails galore. But drink wine you must, as a thoughtful list tiptoes between timeless European and steadfast Australian drops, all at reasonable prices. It’s hard not to feel outside of your skin – in a good way – when in Byron. It soothes the soul and makes all well. Add live music framed by a setting sun to this equation, and you’ll agree that ordering one more drink is never a bad idea.  Alex Mitcheson

odd culture

266 King St, Newtown,
oddculture.group

GO FOR: breezy afternoon cocktails and anchovy cigars

You know you’re somewhere that takes its drinks seriously when the fermentation concept transcends the wine list, the beer and cocktail list – and infiltrates the kitchen, too. Yes, Newtown’s Odd Culture is the Inner West’s beacon for all things distilled and brewed (and cultured), combining an all-day European wine bar sensibility with an Asian (ingredient) bent and favouring the wilder side of the fermented liquid lexicon. Pull up a seat at the bar and watch the world of King Street go by or book a table on the mezzanine, order a few dishes (the chicken liver pate with potato chips and fish sauce caramel is a must) and a bottle of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine. Vibrant, modern Sydney at its culinary best.  DOM SWEENEY

fix wine

111 Elizabeth St, Sydney, fixwine.com.au

GO FOR: The chance to get inside the acclaimed wine-mind of Stuart Knox

‘Life’s too short to drink shit booze,’ according to the character-filled drinks menu at Fix Wine bar. The selection that follows, curated by owner and sommelier Stuart Knox, proves the venue is true to its word. A favourite since opening in 2006, Fix is a reliable small bar and restaurant offering carefully selected, often artisanal, wines without the snobbery. On that account, you’re just as likely to find oenophiles poring over the menu as you are to see an episodic drinker pop in on a whim for an after-work tipple. And both would be equally satisfied. Almost all wines on the extensive list come by the glass, flask or bottle, and many can also be ordered to taste (75ml).
Kate Symons

Pipit Restaurant

Shop 4/8 Coronation Ave, Pottsville, pipitrestaurant.com

GO FOR: wines coupled with incredible house-made cheeses

Escape the surrounding melees of Byron Bay and the Gold Coast, and Pipit is not just a beacon of bucolic calm but one of Australia’s eminent rural fine-dining establishments. A plant-filled courtyard and a raised bar overlooking the open plan kitchen are prime spots to sip a glass. As you would expect, the ambience is light here in the Northern Rivers; backed by modest, soft rock from bygone decades, the space undeniably hints at Scandinavian simplicity. The wine is an all-Australian affair where the well-known and emerging unite for a list highlighting biodiversity and minimal intervention. An incredible line-up of house-made cheese and salami make for grazing on a wholly different level.  Alex Mitcheson 

the edwards

148 Parry St, Newcastle West
theedwards.com.au

GO FOR: salt & vinegar brussels sprouts with char sui pork ribs, paired with a glass of local wine 

Whether its a lazy Sunday arvo sipping on natural wines with live music, a Saturday evening with a few cocktails or a cheeky mid-week lunch or dinner with a vino, The Edwards has you covered. I’m a big fan of the vibe – relaxed yet refined and cosy, with a choice of comfy couches, bar stools or family-style dining tables. There’s plenty of natural light, house (actually, restaurant) plants and a fireplace for those cooler days. The list has a great selection of modern-day Australian winemaking, creative cocktails, local beers and spirits. Also keep an eye on their socials, with regular winemaker takeovers and events.  Amy Northcott

the shop and wine bar

8 Curlewis St, Bondi Beach, theshopandwinebar.com.au

GO FOR: Happy hour from 3-6pm 

The Shop & Wine Bar, owned by husband-and-wife duo Mike and Lucy Haskas, is a must visit in Bondi Beach. Recently refurbished, this intimate and cosy spot is a favourite among locals. Buzzing with patrons from morning to evening, you’ll also find chef Adam Wallhausen serving up some of the most talked about BLTs in town. The space offers a handful of tables indoors, with further seating spilling out onto the sidewalk. The wine list is short and succinct, yet features stellar examples from across Australia. Covering everything including orange wine, pét-nats and chilled reds, there’s something to suit all preferences.  Ellis van der Wulp 

ante

146 King St, Newtown, ante.bar

GO FOR: A Sake Flight guided by the ANTE team

Walking along bustling King Street, it’s easy to miss the unassuming dark exterior of ANTE. But once you find it, you’ll never miss it again. Upon entry you’re greeted with a moody, modern vibe courtesy of owner Matt Young’s collection of records. No matter whether you know your way around sake or are a true novice, be sure to jump into a Sake Flight to experience the depth to ANTE’s offering. Let the team guide you for your three options, with the list featuring more than 60 different sakes a helping hand will be welcomed. Peruse over the cocktail list too, where some cool creations offer a nod to Japanese spirits and flavours. Be sure to order the fermented shiitake mushroom tagliatelle if it’s on the menu – it’s a dish my tastebuds are keen to revisit ASAP.  Amy Northcott

Paski Vineria Popolare

239 Oxford St, Sydney, paski.com.au

GO FOR: Grab the benchtop window seats to enjoy the theatre of Oxford Street

This busy, buzzy wine bar and bottle shop is the latest venue by Giorgio De Maria, with fellow importer and sommelier Mattia Dicati and chef Enrico Tomelleri. Perch on a bar stool at a high-top table and order from the plentiful selection by the glass or scan the shelves for one of the 400-plus artisan drops by smaller makers from Italy and elsewhere. Confused by the huge choice and unfamiliar names? Just ask Giorgio and the gang to point you in the right direction. Perhaps Els Bassots Chenin Blanc with salumi and crusty bread or Rosammare Barraco with a plate of cheese. Head up to Paski Sopra for the à la carte menu of regional Italian food. Oh and check out the mural featuring De Maria’s border collie, Paski, for whom the venue is named. JUDY SARRIS

Roth’s Wine Bar

30 Market St, Mudgee,
rothswinebar.com.au

GO FOR: A glass of local sangiovese and a slice of the Espanola wood-fired pizza.

Mudgee continues to inspire weekender treks chasing the sun, vines, and distinct wines that grow just beyond the Great Divide. Roth’s (Famous) Wines on Market St has been championing top local drops for almost a century, since founder Robert Roth rocked up in 1923, selling adult-beverages ‘under the counter’ to thirsty farmers who’d come into town for their monthly provisions. Today, Roth’s represents an ever rotating roster of some of the region’s best wine, including Logan, Manners, Robert Stein, Burnbrae, Craigmoor, and many more. Kick back in the stone-stacked courtyard with a wood-fired pizza on order and a glass of something good, under lights, side by side with locals and live music.  Daniel J. Honan

act - molly

Odgers Lane, Canberra, molly.bar

GO FOR: live big band swing most nights or head along on Sunday evenings for chill gospel jazz and a slow whisky cocktail

Once you’ve unearthed the entrance to Molly (the address of this speakeasy is, literally, “Wooden Door, Odgers Lane”) and wound your way up the narrow concrete stairs, you’ll find yourself in a copper-topped, gilded and super comfortable bar that’s popular with the after-dinner crowd. Dedicated to the women of the Molly Pitcher Club who fought for the repeal of the Prohibition, this is a space that makes you grateful for the progress and the luxuries of the 21st century – luxuries like a seriously encyclopedic whisky menu that covers single malts, independents, international whiskies and a great Tasmanian section. Go for the whiskies, but stay for the spirits, mezcals, armagnacs, and cleverly inventive cocktails served up by the talented bar staff.  Emma Shaw

act - dear prudence

100 Alinga St, Canberra, dearprudencebar.com.au

GO FOR: order up-market bao or handmade pasta from the nearby Verity Lane and it will be delivered to your table 

The ambience of Dear Prudence perfectly matches its wines – it’s an energetic, refined and elegant fit-out that melds seamlessly with the bare bones of the Sydney Building, save for some sparse lighting and peeling paint. Perfect imperfection is also reflected in the wine list, which focuses on natural and progressive wines – but these are natty wines done well. I love that the menu is grouped by names like ‘fancy white’, ‘easy orange’, ‘chilled red’, ‘pretty red’, and ‘big boy red’. It’s a great move when both the varieties and wine styles (skin-contact ribolla from Friuli, anyone?) are likely to be new to most drinkers. Sommeliers Chester Mok and Benito Drovandi have assembled a collection of what Chester proudly calls “weird stuff”, but there are enough classics tucked in there to satisfy the less adventurous, too.  Emma Shaw


All photography supplied by venues.