mother vine
22-26 Vardon Ave, Adelaide, mothervine.com.au
GO FOR: the best from a suite of Sa winemakers
Venture into Adelaide’s modish east end and be lured down Vardon Lane where festoon lamps light the way to some of the city’s best bars after dark. Mother Vine is a reference point for locals, a place with a strong sense of provenance, where South Australia meets France over Champagne, aromatic whites, chardonnays, rosés and pinot noir. Against an exposed-brick garagiste-style backdrop you’ll be welcomed by enthusiastic staff, lulled by the soft beat lounge music and wowed by the Burgundy – white and red – with mid- to high-end offerings from Dujac and Leflaive, amongst others. Aspirational though these may be come instead for the South Australian wines and snack from a range of seasonal small plates and cheeses. Sara Underdown
muni
2/3 High St, Willunga,
munirestaurant.com
GO FOR: Book ahead – seats are in high demand, as is the Cape calamari and oyster shroom
Willunga is home to one of the most exciting natural wine bars and restaurants in Australia. Blink and you’ll miss the understated exterior. Indoors, a lo-fi wonderland awaits. Locals such as Borachio Pash Rash (a pink pet-nat from the Adelaide Hills) and the Fistful of Flowers Momento Mori (vermentino from Heathcote, Vic) are proudly displayed alongside international shooting stars like Poussière de Lune Les Maisons Brûlées. Wine of this calibre is here one day, gone the next so there’s always an adventure to be had. Co-owners and chefs Mug Chen and Chia Wu also serve exquisite Taiwanese snacks in the narrow, stylish space. Katie Spain
maybe mae
15 Peel St, Adelaide, maybemae.com
GO FOR: Award-winning cocktails made with freshly sourced fruit and local ingredients
As you navigate the tucked-away bars of Adelaide’s Peel and Leigh streets, you’ll discover the most clandestine of them all: through a tunnel linking the streets, down a dark staircase and behind an unmarked door. Congratulations, you’ve found Maybe Mae. Slink into a leather booth, chill to the modern jazz, and peruse the cocktail-only list. The team have grouped their drinks into four distinct styles: The Market (fresh and local), The Cellar (mixes made from preserved produce) and the Hall of Fame (all-time favourites), plus a non-alcoholic selection that has been crafted with care. There is no food here, but you can head upstairs to their sister venue – Bread & Bone Wood Grill – for that. You’ll stay, seduced by the secrecy, sex appeal and succulence of every sip. Sara Underdown
good gilbert
135B Goodwood Rd, Goodwood, goodgilbert.com
Go for: The celeriac hash browns with smoked salmon pearls and Matriarch & Rogue Rogues of the Resistance Pecorino
There are 23 pages in the Good Gilbert Menu. Not one of them is wasted. Chef Sav Sexton has created a fun range of dishes motivated by nostalgic inspiration. Husband and wife duo Wilson and Izzy Shawyer are champions of Chablis and Champagne, obvious from the French-heavy list of wines, but locals get a decent look in, too. It’s the laid-back neighborhood vibe that gives Good Gilbert a spot on the best places to drink list. The layout centres around community, and the design is thoughtful and considered rather than overly sleek, with walls covered in works from local artists alongside cheeky wine-inspired prints. The best news is they have just extended their space with a new kitchen, dining and drinking area, which means more opportunity to crack a drop of something light and easy, or perhaps a little more serious. Whatever your tipple I’m sure you’ll agree that they really should have called this place ‘Great’ Gilbert, because it really is. Paul Wood
The Exeter Hotel
246 Rundle St, Adelaide
theexeter.com.au
GO FOR: The house-brined chicken schnitzel is a local favourite.
This is one of the quintessential urban wine haunts in a city that is now brimming with great options for wine lovers. But this is a place whose shadow extends long across the local wine scene, a place that has the sort of credibility that most new joints only dream of. You’ll run into old friends, make new ones and drink well from the all-Australian selection that is chalked high above the bar. Local rarities like Wendouree and Ochota Barrels add heat to an always interesting short list of cool local and interstate bottles. Some of the tastiest beer taps in Australia are always busy and there’s a proud tradition of drinking Krug Grande Cuvée in butcher (beer) glasses at the bar. The original and best. Nick Stock
Arkhé
127 The Parade, Norwood,
arkhe.com.au
Tip: Ask for the parfait a la Burnt Ends as an off-menu item
Arkhé receives acclaim for its fiery kitchen and flame-kissed dishes but there’s an outing in itself in the bar area, too. Aesthetically, it’s sexy; think charcoal black and a New York City neighbourhood bar vibe where locals and visitors feel equally at home. The space seats 45, and bar manager Vanessa Rech and the team work hard to surprise and delight with a thoughtfully curated menu spanning the globe. Sections include vintage and non-vintage Champagne, cocktails and mocktails. The snacks are top-notch. The ocean jacket cheeks on toast are a must. Bookings and walk-ins welcome. Friday post-work drinks are a great time to visit as the likes of DJs Adam Frawley and Mark Kemleh are on the decks. Katie Spain
Hügel
53 Main St, Lobethal, hugelwinebar.com
Go for: The instagrammable grazing boards and a glass of 2018 Hahndorf Hill Blaufränkisch
Simplicity is key at Hügel in the quietly humming Adelaide Hills township of Lobethal. It’s light and bright inside, as are the dishes on the casual wine-bar appropriate food menu. Local lad Josh Kleemann set up this vault of pleasure after skirting the vocational edges of hospitality and wine. A bespoke communal table takes centre stage and feels like you’re visiting friends. There’s also a cosy corner nook or sit at the original up-cycled bank counter. The focus is largely on local wine and drinks, segmented by style more than varietal. The list is short and sweet but more than sufficient, with Hills darlings chardonnay and pinot noir tipping the balance, next to a full range of gins and spirits from neighbouring Applewood Distillery. But its the neatly packaged, humble experience of Hügel that will leave you feeling just a little more wholesome. Paul Wood
fall from grace
206–208 Port Rd, Ald ingainstagram.com/fallfromgracealdinga
GO FOR: Local musicians and guest food vendors are a regular fixture
This regional Australian enoteca-style wine spot built a loyal local following over many years at the hand of founder Gill Gordon-Smith. The baton and keys are now passed to new proprietor Margot Muir who is well-known to SA wine folk thanks to an esteemed career in wine. Fall From Grace is a gem. It is intensely personal and unwaveringly personable, the range of wines in this bottle bar is always peppered with education, discovery and interest. Bottles here are bought on recommendation, more back story than back label, and this intimate and exquisite venue is part of a groundswell of fresh energy in the McLaren Vale region’s wine and hospitality offering. Nick Stock
Silver Sands Beach Club
Norman Rd, Aldinga Beach
silversandsbeachclub.com.au
Go for: prawn cocktail buns paired with NV Fleury Blanc de Noirs Champagne
Gone is the era of oily fish and chips, and budget beer. In its place is a shining example of beachside dining and drinking. At the helm are local legend Mark Kamleh and drinks expert Nick Stock. The superb drinks list is no doubt pulled together from Stock’s years of traversing the wine-world. They’ve also recruited a strong kitchen team, delivering everything from up-styled pub classics like local salt and pepper squid, to swordfish with beurre blanc and Burgundy. The fit-out makes the most of the outdoor setting with metal seating and planter boxes and you’ll catch the rays gleaming off the ocean in a view that takes in the southern coastline. Kick back with a bottle of hard-to-find Beaujolais or select from a thorough list of Premier Cru Burgundy. Paul Wood
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Harvard Wang, Tom Blachford, Tess Kelly Photography, Kristoffer Paulsen and courtesy Jayden Ong Winery and Cellar Bar, Carlton Wine Room, Winespeake Cellar + Deli, Igni, Ten Minutes by Tractor and France-Soir.